|
The
2.25 Inch Rule
When playing position, the
smaller increments you can divide the table into, the more precision your
game will acquire. A convenient measurement for learning this type of thinking
is to divide the table into 2.25” increments, which is the diameter of
the balls. You can then use the balls to accurately set up practice routines
that teach you position play and the effects of small differences in the
location of the balls. You will quickly discover that 2.25” has a significant
impact on the cue balls path.
Practicing
the 2.25 Inch Rule
1-ball For example, try
the practice drill below. Place two balls directly opposite the second
diamond, then remove the ball closest to the rail. Next, place the cue
ball in the exact center of the table. This will give you the 40-degree
cut shot on the 1-ball as shown. Use a full tip of draw (no english) and
a medium hard stroke. The diagram shows where the cue ball struck the lower
side rail when I shot it several times. (Note: your stroke and playing
conditions could lead to a slightly different result on all of the shots
in this routine.) Shoot this and the following shot several times. And
be sure to mark the contact point on the second rail after each shot with
a coin.

2-ball Next I set up the 2-ball
4.5” from the rail, which produced a 30-degree cut shot. Use the same cuing
and speed as for the 1-ball. The cue ball hit the lower side rail about
two diamonds past the side pocket. Finally, the 3-ball was placed 6.75”
from the cushion giving me a 22-degree cut shot.
3-ball The 3-ball was
played the same as the preceding two shots. Notice how much wider the return
angle was for the shot on the 3-ball versus the 2-ball.
Your Results
Now look at the position
of the coins. You will discover that the cue ball’s contact point with
the second rail will vary much more as the object ball is moved further
from the rail. The dispersion pattern for theshot on the 1-ball will be
very tight while that for the 3-ball will be much wider as small differences
in suing, pocketing, and speed are magnified.
Drill #2, Etc.
After completing this drill,
you can add to you knowledge of small increments by moving the cue ball
2.25 inches in any of four directions from its present location (left or
right, up or down).
Roger’s
Big Mistake
Roger was trailing 4-6 in
a race to seven when fired in a super tough shot on the 7-ball like Strickland
in dead punch. Roger, perhaps suffering from the post great shot let down
syndrome, sent the cue ball to the rail after pocketing the 8-ball, leaving
himself the touchy shot in the diagram below.

I figured Roger would make
the 9-ball even with the cue ball frozen to the rail, as the shot was not
too difficult if played correctly. But when Roger started fiddling with
his bridge I began to fear the worst. Roger wound up using the closed bridge
you normally use for shots on the bed of the table. With his cue now elevated
at about a 15-degree angle, his chances of making the shot had probably
dropped from 95% to 50% or less. Sure enough, Roger missed the shot badly,
handing the set to over his opponent.
I asked him the next day
why he used the closed bridge and he said it was because he feared miscuing.
I then had him play several frozen to the rail shots with a nearly level
cue (elevation of 1-2 degrees) and he pocketed the ball cleanly nearly
every time.
A Very Common
Error
The fear of a miscue on
rail shots, which leads to the use of an elevated bridge on these shots,
is one of the most common mistakes amateurs make. The problem with the
elevated bridge on rail shots is that the cure (for miscuing) is worse
than the ill.
The big problem with the
elevated bridge is that the tiniest error in your stroke is highly magnified
due to the downward hit on the cue ball. A couple of millimeters of unwanted
sidespin will cause the cue ball to curve significantly offline. This leads
to missed shots in which the object ball fails to even scare the pocket.
Solving The Problem
If you also suffer from
the believe that you will miscue on frozen rail shots, I suggest you try
the following exercises.
Exercise #1
Place a stripe ball on the
table with the stripe level as shown. Use an open bridge and place your
tip on the vertical axis with half of the tip above the stripe and half
below. Shoot the ball towards the middle of the far end rail with just
enough speed so that the stripe ball returns the middle diamond under your
cue..
This will teach you the maximum
speed with which you would almost ever want to use with a rail shot. Cueing
in this position also duplicates the place you would be hitting the cue
ball if it were on the rail!! I’ll bet you didn’t miscue, did you?

Exercise #2
Now place the stripe ball
up against the end rail as shown below. Use an openhanded rail bridge and
keep your cue level, just as you did when playing the shot in the previous
exercise. Once again, you want to contact the cue ball with half of the
tip above the stripe, and half below. Use enough force to send the cue
ball to the end rail and back to the foot sot If your mechanics are sound,
you should have no problem executing this shot without a miscue.
Exercise #3
For those of you who aren’t
convinced that an elevated bridge on the rail is a big mistake, I suggest
you try this drill. Place any ball in the same position as in the previous
drill. Now aim at the opposite middle diamond. The goal is to hit the ball
and have it return to its original location. I think you’ll be amazed at
how far off line the ball is on 90%+ of your attempts.
|